Plain grey concrete is drab and has little if any aesthetic appeal. There are numerous techniques now available to enhance the appearance of a poured concrete slab. These processes can be used on any concrete slab around pools, patios, walkways, and driveways. It should be noted that with the possible exception of the exposed aggregate technique, all other decorative concrete techniques rely on a solid finished surface. If you have areas of concrete that are flaking, these areas should be repaired prior to adding the decorative finishes.
Stamped:
Stamped concrete uses a negative template, usually made of steel or fiberglass to place a pattern into wet concrete. The templates produce a variety of shapes, forms, and textures and are designed to have the appearance of tile, wood, flagstone, brick, pavers, and stone. A vast array of decorative colors, specifically made to blend with concrete are available. The colors are either mixed into the concrete before it is poured or dusted on the surface on site.
Stamped concrete is generally less expensive than the “real” product, yet if properly installed, it is difficult to see the difference. One of the biggest advantages to a stamped concrete slab is its stability. Where individually laid flagstone, bricks, and pavers have a tendency to shift and heave, the stamped concrete slab is a single entity.
The technique of stamping concrete provides it with the ability to not only blend with other architectural features but to enhance the overall landscaping project. Complex designs can be etched into the concrete giving any property a unique appearance.
Engraving:
Engraving is one of the most common techniques used to update or enhance an existing concrete slab, be it a driveway, walkway, or patio. Although there are many treatments for a freshly poured concrete slab, only a few of them can be used on old concrete. By using engraving, it is not necessary to demolish an existing concrete slab in order to get rid of the bland, grey appearance.
By using engraving, you can produce elaborate patterns, such as pavers or brick at a fraction of the cost of the actual material. Once the concrete is engraved it can be stained which adds “look alike” coloring to the finished project. The visual and decorative possibilities are only constrained by your imagination
Exposed Aggregate:
An excellent and very eye appealing finishing technique for driveways, patios and walkways, is created by exposing the aggregate imbedded in the concrete mix.
The best results for the exposed aggregate technique are usually obtained when the colorful aggregates are blended into the ready-mix concrete at origin. However, experienced contractors can add the aggregate to be exposed in the concrete at the time of pouring. In either case, there are three different methods of exposing the aggregate within the concrete: sandblasting, chemical treatment or by water pressure.
The amount of the aggregate to be made visible is controlled by the amount of sandblasting or water used to expose the material. The exposure can be light or heavy depending on the desired visual effect. A single concrete slab can have light areas and heavy areas, creating unique textured patterns.
It is generally accepted practice to seal, with a clear coat acrylic, the areas where the aggregate has been exposed and by doing so you enhance the colors of the aggregate.
Coloring:
Adding a color to the concrete when it is produced at the plant or by applying it to the wet concrete after it has been poured is a technique often used to enhance existing colors around the property, such as stone, stucco and roof materials. Only use color enhancements that have been formulated to work with concrete.
Saw and Grove Patterns:
With the use of a concrete saw or hand tool it is relatively easy to create intricate patterns in the concrete. It is common to stain the concrete with different shades of coloring to create a flagstone or other enhanced visual effect.
This is an excellent method of hiding the cracks in the surface of a concrete slab.
Staining:
Unlike coloring, where the dye is added to the concrete in its wet state, either at the initial production of the product or on-site, stain is used to color concrete that has already cured and is hard.
Stain can be used on concrete that has been previously colored to change the color or it can be used on concrete in its natural grey color. Stains can be used on interior surfaces such as basement floors or on exterior concrete work. Because the stain reacts differently to each of the concrete’s inherent minerals the resultant is a visually appealing mottled effect.
Only use stains that have been formulated to work on concrete. Always clean all dirt and grime off the concrete to be stained before application.
As with most home improvement and remodel projects, planning and knowledge are the keys to success.
For additional information on decorative concrete for driveways, patios and walkways or other home improvement projects, visit Renovation Headquarters.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bill_Prudehome
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Monday, March 2, 2009
Driveways - Types and Styles
A Step by Step Guide on How to Pave a Driveway using Bricks
The secret to paving a driveway using bricks is in the preparation. To install a paved driveway correctly so that it will stand the test of time, firstly you need to excavate the area to the correct depth, then you need to concrete the sub base to give it the strength it needs to withstand the weight from cars, and thirdly the pavers need to be laid on a strong mortar mix so that they set rock hard into position.
1. Excavation
Excavating your driveway is best achieved with the assistance of Skid Steer Loader or Bobcat especially if its a large area. You will also need to think about what you are going to do with the excavations that you remove from you driveway. You may wish to pay for a skip bin to be delivered or your Bobcat/Skid Steer Loader operator may be happy to load up his/her truck and drive to the nearest waste station.
To correctly work out the depth to which you should excavate you need to add together,the thickness of the brick paver, the thickness of the concrete sub-base (normally 100mm) and the thickness of the mortar bed (normally 30mm). Lets say for this exercise that our pavers are 50mm thick. Then we would need to excavate to a depth of 180mm below the finished height of the paved driveway.
2. Concreting
Next we need to form up or box up the sides of our driveway in preparation for concrete. This can be done with lengths of timber and some pegs to hold it into position. We want the top of the timber boxing to be the top of our concrete slab which is 80mm below the finished height of our paved driveway. Next we place sheets of reinforcing steel mesh sitting on 50mm bar chairs, in the area were going to concrete, cutting it to fit if necessary. The bar chairs keep the mesh 50mm off the ground - hence the mesh will be located in the middle of the slab, giving the slab tensile strength. We then need to workout how much concrete we need, by multiplying the length of the driveway by the width of the driveway by the depth (100mm) of the driveway together. This will tell us how many cubic metres to order. We then need to pour our driveway, levelling the concrete off and allowing it to cure for no less than 24 hours.
3. Laying the Pavers
When it comes to laying the pavers there is much divide between paving contractors on which is the right and wrong way. Everyone seems to have there own techniques and procedures to lay pavers, however everyone seems to agree that laying them on mortar is the only sure fire way of assuring that your driveway will still be there in 25 years time.
To lay pavers you first need to set up your screed rails. Screed rails are pieces of 30mm square tubing, usually made out of aluminium. Place these on the concrete, about 2 metres apart and parrallel to each other. These will act like our concrete boxing, it will hold the sides of our mortar bed. Next we need to mix up some mortar, usually in a cement mixer, using a ratio of 4 washed sand to 1 cement and water to suit. You want your mortar mix to be nice and creamy (not to wet not to dry) there will be some trial and error involved in achieving the desired mix. Tip the mix into a wheel barrow and spread it out between our screed rails. Then using a third screed rail long enough in length to reach between our two existing rails, we pull any excess mortar back towards us, levelling the mortar to the height of the two parrallel screed rails.
Once this is achieved you just need to move the rails along and repeat the process. You may need to use a paving float/trowel to fill in any tight corners or indents created by the rails themselves.
At this point you should already have a paving pattern that you like in mind. If not some are listed below:
90 degree herrinbone
45 degree herringbone
basket weave
stretcher bond
An important rule to remember is to always lay your paving square to the house, otherwise it tends to catch your eye and look unprofessional.
Firstly make sure your mortar is still quite wet, then wet the bottom of the paver with a sponge and lay the paver on the mortar bed. The pavers may need a tap into position with a rubber mallet. You may wish to use several stringlines when your laying, otherwise the pattern can run out of square.
4. Cutting and Sweeping In
You will then need to mark any cuts you have, with a pencil and cut them using a brick saw. Using brick saw can take some practice to become competant and achieve accurate results.You can hire a Brick saw on a daily basis from any local hire shop.
Lastly sweep fine washed sand into the joints filling up any small gaps that may have occured.
The three important things to remember when paving your driveway are getting the excavation levels right, concreting the sub base, and always lay the bricks/pavers on a mortar base. If you keep these three things in mind and make sure the are done properly then everything else will flow on from there.
Scotty is a landscape gardener who owns a landscaping business called Landscape Shape and Form based in Melbourne Australia. He has paved many driveways over the course of his career.
Asphalt Paving Driveway Maintenance Tips
By Brett Lane
Asphalt paving or Hot Mix Asphalt is typically what one thinks of when installing driveways of new homes. It is by far one of the least expensive methods for paving a surface in new home construction sites. Properly installed asphalt paved driveways have a life expectancy of about thirty or more years.
These asphalt paved driveways consist of rock particles, sand, and asphalt cement, which make it flexible and durable at the same time. New asphalt is by far the most flexible because it still retains many of the lighter hydrocarbon oils that make up its DNA structure. Crushed gravel makes up the foundation on which the asphalt is laid, to promote stability of the asphalt structure. By laying five to eight inches of gravel beneath the asphalt you are ensuring a greater life expectancy for your asphalt driveway. Also by having your asphalt paving company install your asphalt finish at least one foot before the asphalt covers the gravel, you are allowing your asphalt driveway to not crack when visitors drive to the edge of the finished surface. This will give greater flexibility and allow your asphalt driveway to look as nice as it can for as long as possible. The next step is to seal your asphalt driveway after about six to nine months.
The new asphalt driveway must cure out over that time frame. If sealed to quickly, the hydrocarbon oils that give the asphalt paving its flexibility will cause it to be too flexible, thus, allowing greater marks to exist over time. When it is time to seal your asphalt paved driveway, remember to put at least two coats of high quality seal coat over the entire driveway. This is to be repeated every three to five years for the maximum life expectancy of your asphalt paved driveway. By being patient and following this advice, your asphalt paved driveway will be around for many years to come. Take good care of it and it will definitely add character to your home. Asphalt paving or Hot Mix Asphalt is and will always be the best alternative for those seeking to pave surfaces in a flexible manner. To find other great tips about asphalt paving visit http://www.manhattenpaving.com
Brett Lane is the Webmaster and SEO professional for Manhatten Paving Company, located in Los Angeles, California. http://www.manhattenpaving.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brett_Lane
The secret to paving a driveway using bricks is in the preparation. To install a paved driveway correctly so that it will stand the test of time, firstly you need to excavate the area to the correct depth, then you need to concrete the sub base to give it the strength it needs to withstand the weight from cars, and thirdly the pavers need to be laid on a strong mortar mix so that they set rock hard into position.
1. Excavation
Excavating your driveway is best achieved with the assistance of Skid Steer Loader or Bobcat especially if its a large area. You will also need to think about what you are going to do with the excavations that you remove from you driveway. You may wish to pay for a skip bin to be delivered or your Bobcat/Skid Steer Loader operator may be happy to load up his/her truck and drive to the nearest waste station.
To correctly work out the depth to which you should excavate you need to add together,the thickness of the brick paver, the thickness of the concrete sub-base (normally 100mm) and the thickness of the mortar bed (normally 30mm). Lets say for this exercise that our pavers are 50mm thick. Then we would need to excavate to a depth of 180mm below the finished height of the paved driveway.
2. Concreting
Next we need to form up or box up the sides of our driveway in preparation for concrete. This can be done with lengths of timber and some pegs to hold it into position. We want the top of the timber boxing to be the top of our concrete slab which is 80mm below the finished height of our paved driveway. Next we place sheets of reinforcing steel mesh sitting on 50mm bar chairs, in the area were going to concrete, cutting it to fit if necessary. The bar chairs keep the mesh 50mm off the ground - hence the mesh will be located in the middle of the slab, giving the slab tensile strength. We then need to workout how much concrete we need, by multiplying the length of the driveway by the width of the driveway by the depth (100mm) of the driveway together. This will tell us how many cubic metres to order. We then need to pour our driveway, levelling the concrete off and allowing it to cure for no less than 24 hours.
3. Laying the Pavers
When it comes to laying the pavers there is much divide between paving contractors on which is the right and wrong way. Everyone seems to have there own techniques and procedures to lay pavers, however everyone seems to agree that laying them on mortar is the only sure fire way of assuring that your driveway will still be there in 25 years time.
To lay pavers you first need to set up your screed rails. Screed rails are pieces of 30mm square tubing, usually made out of aluminium. Place these on the concrete, about 2 metres apart and parrallel to each other. These will act like our concrete boxing, it will hold the sides of our mortar bed. Next we need to mix up some mortar, usually in a cement mixer, using a ratio of 4 washed sand to 1 cement and water to suit. You want your mortar mix to be nice and creamy (not to wet not to dry) there will be some trial and error involved in achieving the desired mix. Tip the mix into a wheel barrow and spread it out between our screed rails. Then using a third screed rail long enough in length to reach between our two existing rails, we pull any excess mortar back towards us, levelling the mortar to the height of the two parrallel screed rails.
Once this is achieved you just need to move the rails along and repeat the process. You may need to use a paving float/trowel to fill in any tight corners or indents created by the rails themselves.
At this point you should already have a paving pattern that you like in mind. If not some are listed below:
90 degree herrinbone
45 degree herringbone
basket weave
stretcher bond
An important rule to remember is to always lay your paving square to the house, otherwise it tends to catch your eye and look unprofessional.
Firstly make sure your mortar is still quite wet, then wet the bottom of the paver with a sponge and lay the paver on the mortar bed. The pavers may need a tap into position with a rubber mallet. You may wish to use several stringlines when your laying, otherwise the pattern can run out of square.
4. Cutting and Sweeping In
You will then need to mark any cuts you have, with a pencil and cut them using a brick saw. Using brick saw can take some practice to become competant and achieve accurate results.You can hire a Brick saw on a daily basis from any local hire shop.
Lastly sweep fine washed sand into the joints filling up any small gaps that may have occured.
The three important things to remember when paving your driveway are getting the excavation levels right, concreting the sub base, and always lay the bricks/pavers on a mortar base. If you keep these three things in mind and make sure the are done properly then everything else will flow on from there.
Scotty is a landscape gardener who owns a landscaping business called Landscape Shape and Form based in Melbourne Australia. He has paved many driveways over the course of his career.
Asphalt Paving Driveway Maintenance Tips
By Brett Lane
Asphalt paving or Hot Mix Asphalt is typically what one thinks of when installing driveways of new homes. It is by far one of the least expensive methods for paving a surface in new home construction sites. Properly installed asphalt paved driveways have a life expectancy of about thirty or more years.
These asphalt paved driveways consist of rock particles, sand, and asphalt cement, which make it flexible and durable at the same time. New asphalt is by far the most flexible because it still retains many of the lighter hydrocarbon oils that make up its DNA structure. Crushed gravel makes up the foundation on which the asphalt is laid, to promote stability of the asphalt structure. By laying five to eight inches of gravel beneath the asphalt you are ensuring a greater life expectancy for your asphalt driveway. Also by having your asphalt paving company install your asphalt finish at least one foot before the asphalt covers the gravel, you are allowing your asphalt driveway to not crack when visitors drive to the edge of the finished surface. This will give greater flexibility and allow your asphalt driveway to look as nice as it can for as long as possible. The next step is to seal your asphalt driveway after about six to nine months.
The new asphalt driveway must cure out over that time frame. If sealed to quickly, the hydrocarbon oils that give the asphalt paving its flexibility will cause it to be too flexible, thus, allowing greater marks to exist over time. When it is time to seal your asphalt paved driveway, remember to put at least two coats of high quality seal coat over the entire driveway. This is to be repeated every three to five years for the maximum life expectancy of your asphalt paved driveway. By being patient and following this advice, your asphalt paved driveway will be around for many years to come. Take good care of it and it will definitely add character to your home. Asphalt paving or Hot Mix Asphalt is and will always be the best alternative for those seeking to pave surfaces in a flexible manner. To find other great tips about asphalt paving visit http://www.manhattenpaving.com
Brett Lane is the Webmaster and SEO professional for Manhatten Paving Company, located in Los Angeles, California. http://www.manhattenpaving.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brett_Lane
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